MYBOAT

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Keel and Skeg Stringers

It most conventionally built wooden boats, the frames refer to what you might think of as the "ribs" of the boat running across ways (thats "athwartship," to you, matey!). In the Glen-L Waterlodge, the framing members run longitudinally and are called stringers.

So building the boat frame means assembling the individual stringers and then tying them together with various cross beams.

There were five stringers total. Two side stringers, one keel stringer in the middle, and two "skeg stringers" between the keel and the side stringers. While the plans are relatively straightforward about building the stringers, there are lots of pesky details to consider, notches for cross beams, plywood reinforcement, butt blocks to make sure the plywood on the side stringers didnt leak, and a subtle curve to the deck that will sit on top of the stringers.

The keel stringer used big pieces of plywood to structurally reinforce the member and did not have overlapping two-by pieces. The skeg stringers did have overlapping two-by pieces but no reinforcing plywood. The result will be two big storage bulkheads under the decks on either side of the boat.

The side stringers of course had plywood that covered the outside surface of the boat and no overlapping two-by pieces. Well talk about these and their butt blocks in the next build day entry.

The notches for the cross beams were easy, though we still forgot a few and had to cut them out of the already assembled stringers. The porch deck beam notches were not really dimensioned properly on the plans and so we had to do a little improvisation later.

We built the stringers on the asphalt floor of the barn. It was flatish and shaded, so we didnt bake as we fretted over the details of our new stringers.

One challenge we faced was making sure that each member we built matched all the others. The plans suggested literally building them one on top of another. This didnt seem that practical, so we hit on a solution: Using the plywood already cut to shape for the side stringers as a pattern for our other stringers. That way wed know that all the angles would be correct and all the pieces of each member would be in the right place.

We used what we called temporary butt blocks just to hold the side plywood in place while we were using it as a pattern.

So in these photos, you can see the side plywood under our stringers as a pattern.

From left to right: keel stringer, starboard skeg stringer, and port skeg stringer.

So for each stringer, the process was more or less: Lay out the pieces for fit on our plywood pattern; put wax paper under anything we didnt want to be permanently adhered to anything below, temporarily screw down, as necessary; apply a thin coat of epoxy to both surfaces of every joint; apply a thickened coat of epoxy to one side of every joint; and finally fasten together all joints with stainless steel screws.

After the epoxy on the stringers sets, we could put the stringers on the building form.

Exciting! It is looking more boat-like every day. These incremental changes are probably pretty minor looking to other folks, and the progress may seem pretty slow. But for us, it is crazy. Look we had a pile of lumber! Now we have this boat(ish) thing! Amazing!

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Desert Island Boats 2

Contd from Desert Island Boats

I spent the better part of this week on a Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter sailing from Lymington to Brixham.
Whilst I lost a bit of the experience to the worst seasickness Ive ever had I did learn a lot about gaff rigs, which, after sailing, was the objective.

Here are some reflections:
Gaffs are easy to drop on peoples heads, heavy to haul up and fall away to leeward.
Gybing is even more dangerous than in a Bermudan rigged boat as the force of the gaff whipping round could bring the mast down. A preventer is essential.
Gaffs seem to require running backstays which add more time, people and rigging to any tack or gybe.

Bristol Channel Pilot Cutters were famously sailed by a man and a boy.
It took at least 5 of us to hold the boat on course, manipulate the mainsheet and sweat and tail the throat and peak halyards to raise the main.
I can only imagine that the boy was a four-armed chimp with a twelve foot reach.

If all this sounds sounds a bit negative then Im misrepresenting the trip. I had a great time. I dont usually sail with a big crew and the teamwork made the sailing even more rewarding. But having that many people on board does give one a lot of time to go in for some serious reflection! So heres some more:

Big bowsprits are a worry. Our skipper was concerned about burying the pole in a big swell, it gave coming alongside in a busy harbour a certain piquancy and because it didnt steve or retract it contributed to the overall length which increases mooring fees but doesnt add speed through waterline length.

Cutter rigs are good. They help you balance the boat. Without the jib set there was considerable weather helm. Raise the jib in front of the staysail and it balances the boat. But if youre worried about burying the bowsprit are you going to put a big bit of cloth, with all the extra strain, on the end of it? You could reef the main to balance the boat. Reefing could be easier. With that gaff and a tree trunk of a boom reefing in a swell could put someone in the drink.

So Im moving towards a Bermudan cutter, perhaps a yawl to reduce the size of the sails and make it easier to balance. A short, retractable, bowsprit isnt out of the question but Im not convinced. It would certainly spread the sail area fore and aft keeping it lower down which would reduce heel.

These are old quandaries, I know. Unfortunately so many sailors seem to advocate certain rigs so devotedly that its impossible to get a really objective analysis. The only solution is to sail them all oneself.

I need to find a double headed Burmudan ketch or yawl with no bowsprit for hire in the UK.

Make A Cheap Row Boat

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Short Update

Ive been trying to get past some fairing stumbling blocks in construction. These have been significant enough to keep me away from the boat for several days. I wont go into it now since I have nothing else to really say about it other than yesterday, somewhat re-invigorated , I went out and started working the build again. I got to a point where I felt like I could get over this hump and I went to bed satisfied enough to feel good about it.

So as soon as I have something significant to post, I will add the latest construction news.

One additional thing Id like to say is that I regularly visit several build sites, builder and design forums, and blogs where people are either sailing or preparing to sail. All of this has a positive effect on my attitude and helps me to get over the inevitable down times. I cannot stress highly enough, the importance of visiting these sites.

For this latest bought of downtime, I was watching some You Tube videos of a young woman from Germany who basically just picked up and bought a used sailboat in Panama. She decided she wants to sail around for some period of time to test herself. Watching her deal with the issues of a used boat and her seemingly endless positive attitude was enough to get me out of my slump and back into the garage.

So if youre building and things are going south, take some time off and see what others are doing. After awhile, youll feel like youre ready to tackle the world again.

Until next time, take care.

Yankee 30 Design 1999

The Yankee 30 is well loved and has a very strong following. The boats were built to a high standard by Yankee Yachts of California. Approximately 130 boats were built during the production run that ran from 1971-1975. They are constructed of fiberglass.

By the way, thats Olin Stephens at the tiller in the image above, during the shake down of hull #1. You can zoom in by double clicking on the image. How do you like the aspect ratio of that mainsail at about 3:1?

Here are the plans.

And a couple of promotional interior shots.

For further information please click here for a link to the Yankee 30 Owners Association.

Heres a very nicely restored boat.

Principal Dimensions
LOA 30-0"
LWL 23-0"
Beam 9-0"
Draft 5-0"
Displacement 8,700 lbs
Ballast 4,130 lbs
Sail Area 430 sq ft

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