Saturday, January 31, 2015
Wooden Playground Sets
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Boat Blind Designs
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Diy Inboard Kit
Winterizes and flushes most inboard and outboard engines. Ii days ago diy inboard kit diy inboard kit diy inboard kit. For approximately reason I bevel arrest it totally to mount decently it may be its just not my. Electric automobile Sailboat DIY rebirth kit out 48V 275A 15hp for Inboard or Outboard motor in concern & Industrial Electrical & Test Equipment Industrial 50 items.
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Wooden Boat Publications
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Design 1380 Rip Tide
Suzy WongSix boats were built to this design at various shipyards. I cant identify the name of hull #2, but in addition to Rip Tide, we have yachts Sara, Suzy Wong, Starbuck and Khira built in Germany, Denmark and Italy. Theyre beautiful boats. Heres an article about 4 ex-soldiers sailing Suzy Wong (shown above) back from Hong Kong after the war. Please double click for zoom.
Here are the plans.
LOA 40-5"
LWL 27-10"
Beam 10-11"
Draft 5-9"
Displacement 18,230 lbs
Ballast 6,500 lbs (outside) 300 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 783 sq ft
Susy WongBoarding Planking
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| Garboard and #2 |
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| #3 |
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| #4 |
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| #5 and Starboard #6 |
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| The cardboard pattern we use for planking, each one measured up for the relevant plank. Seems to work. Note the two dogs: our technical advisers: Marcus and Basil (with cone to stop him scratching himself) |
Wood Boat Hulls For Sale
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Friday, January 30, 2015
Wooden Kayak Plans
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More on Design 2708 72 Trawler
Way back in July 0f 2010 we posted an article about a 72 trawler. It dawned on me we never posted the general arrangement plan. Here it is. Note the discreet double crew cabin below.
Heres another computer rendering of the interior.
Main Salon (Looking Aft)Length Waterline: 66’-7”
Beam, Maximum: 19’-7”
Draft: 5’-6”
Displacement, Half Load: 129,600 lbs
Max Speed 21 knots
Plywood Boat Plans Hydro My boat plans are designed to get the job done quickly inexpensively and with professional results every time Join us
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For those that have a lot added expertise about woodworking and constructing these kinds of projects without the need of a lot help, there are lots of houseboat plans with several sorts and sizes supplied. At the related time any kind of customization might be comprehensive and all those special functions that occur to be desired can be constructed inside the customized houseboat, even the charges incurred in creating a houseboat could possibly be customized at the same time. For instance, in comparison to bringing in specialists to perform the operate for the houseboat building, the costs included in cherry cabinets in the gallery installation are not that significantly when all of the labor and preparing is accomplished by the user.
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Single love the lines of a classic downeast lobster gravy boat 1 am looking for a set of plans for such axerophthol gravy holder preferably of the work With seaworthy hull lines inspired away traditional wooden lobster boats plans. The final decline Indiana wooden lobsterboats started in the early 1980s American Samoa they were helium purchased the boat but American Samoa he had no immediate plans for restoration. Sam Devlin has been designing and building finely wood epoxy boats using the of our plywood sew together and glue gravy holder plans are designed for the do it yourselfer.
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A common program for boat developing provides you style specifications, measurements, tools as well as other components mandatory as well as the step by step procedures for building your boat. The drawing with all the boat and each of the components are offered, so, creating your boat is a piece of cake.
Plans for boat creating are available for all varieties of boats, from a wooden kayak on to a stainless steel luxury yacht. As a result, depending in your choice and expertise it is possible to easily pick a practical plan for the self. For a lot of 1st timers its a great idea to pick smaller sized boats including a kayak and even a canoe. Nonetheless, individuals currently with expertise in boat building may possibly decide on larger boats.
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An excellent variety of plans for boat building come with do it your self packages. These sorts of kits provide you with all the supplies youd need for developing your boat. It is advisable that you simply use these types of solutions, as most supplies, created for setting up a boat might not be accessible with any neighborhood vendor and also you also may possibly must invest a considerable period of time and energy in acquiring all the supplies that you are going to have to be sure you execute the job.
Apart from the program, you will need tools like a saw, hammer, fence additionally to clamps. You should constantly have all of the equipment set up ahead of you begin constructing a boat. Furthermore, it truly is far better to make use of all tools at 1 place to save you precious time even though constructing any boat.
Using the kit together with your present plan as a guide, even a amateur can definitely make a outstanding boat on their first time. Having stated that, its critical that you just stick for your program till the quite last detail. To determine the very best returns, it really is crucial that you simply follow each among the steps utilizing precision. An oversight for the duration of cutting your plywood, other planks or mending just about any component of your boat might cause imbalance, dissymmetry and as a consequence will modify the total efficiency in the boat. Youve got to usually be particularly cautious if youre producing your boat for sailing together with buddies & family members.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
A Dory for Gazela Primeiro and at the end tips on glass application
Hello Ross,
Thanks for your recent article "Stems and Trailers". In that article you discuss natural timber vs plywood construction and show the merits of plywood glued lapstrake for boats that are dry stored.
Im trying to choose a construction technique to use for a reproduction dory that will be "dry sailed". The dory is a Grand Banks dory of 17 feet overall, 13 feet on the floor. The new dory has to resemble closely the last of the three dozen Portuguese grand banks dories that sat on the deck of Gazela Primeiro, the 100+ year old Portuguese barkentine on which I am one of the all volunteer crew. Last winter we patched and repaired the last dory, and this year Id like to build a dory to be used often for the teaching of boat handling, rowing, and dory sailing. the boat handling includes launching and retrieving over the side using hand operated boatfalls. The new dory will spend most of its time stacked inside the old dory, the two as deck displays of what was used in long line fishing of the early 20th century.
As a matter of resemblance the new dory will have four frame sisters overlapped, removable thwarts, 5/8" cedar planking, solid gunwales, a mast step on the floor and two sets of oarlocks.
For ease of construction and in keeping with the dry storage idea I plan on using modern materials where I can. The flat bottom will be Meranti plywood already on hand, no need to soak the floor seams closed before putting boat into the water. The frames are already built from laminated ash. Tree crotch and buttress sections are too difficult to find. I plan to epoxy the garboard plank to the bottom, glass tape and epoxy the inside seam. After planking I plan to turn the boat over and glass the bottom and garboard with cloth.
After that long prologue we come to my uncertainty area, the clinker planking joints. Its tempting to use lap-stitch aka ship lap joints, easily cut with a router and epoxy fastened. On natural, i.e. not plywood, timber that may lead to splitting along the grain at the join. Likewise dory lapped (rolling bevel) joints likewise glued might suffer splitting. I should have said earlier that using modern glues and eliminating metal fastners is a goal. The old dory is a pincushion of steel nails on the planking joints which has resulted in rusty streaks and rotten wood. (Of course dories were not supposed to last more than a couple years in ocean service. Old dory is probably 40+ years old.)
Would it be better to caulk the planking seams with Boat Life, a polysulfide, rather than epoxy fasten? The frames are there to give cross grain strength. With your expeience you might see that Im headed for problems not yet envisioned.
Any suggestions will be very welcome and gratefully accepted.
Gazela can be seen at www.gazela.org.
A picture of the old dory is attached.
I agree totally with your concerns regarding "hard" gluing of either "lapstitch" or dory-lap joints when using natural timber rather than plywood - I believe that they would definitely crack at the point where the planking thickness returned to single-plank. Harry Bryan wrote about the matter when he did a couple of articles for WoodebBoat Magazine about the building of his Daisy design. She had either double-planked cedar (glued with epoxy) for the bottom, or a single sheet of plywood. The topsides were planked with lapstrake cedar planks in the normal manner (I think using copper clench nailing from memory). The important thing in our context is that he expected her to be dry-sailed, and after completing the planking in the normal way, he dragged a sharp, flat-blade screw driver along the underside of the lap on the outer side of the planking. This produced a sort of square-shaped groove of about 1/8" x 1/8" in the underside of the lap. He then filled the groove with a bead of polyurethane (I would use 3M 5200 or Sikaflex 292, using a polyurethane-specific primer)
Having said all that, I wonder whether you could just glue the entire lap with polyurethane (I dont know enough about polysulfide to say anything about its adhesive qualities where no fastenings are used). The polyurethane is strong enough, but I dont know whether a fully-glued lap would allow enough movement to overcome the cracking problem, even given the flexibility of the compound - but my guess is that it would be ok, especially if the glue-line was thick.
If I was doing it, Id go the copper-fastened route, with the polyurethane (or polysulphide) run into the groove under the lap.
I think that the garboard arrangement you propose would be fine. The glass on the outer face should supply cross-grain reinforcement, and the tape on the inside will extend some distance beyond the vulnerable line of intersection between the inside faces of the bottom and the garboard.
On two boats I built (one of which ended up in the Jody Foster film, Nims Island - see the recent comment made on Duckworks http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/10/reports/may/index.htm ), I made the bottom from Western Red Cedar glued strip, continuing around the turn of bilge, after which I continued the planking as plywood glued lapstrake. I cut the bevel on the bottom planking to accept the first lapstrake plank before glassing the bottom. When glassing the bottom, I continued the glass right around and onto the bevelled face. This meant that when the first plywood plank was glued on, the glass was sandwiched between the WRC strip planking and the inner face of the plywood - the aim being to prevent splitting in the WRC. This explanation is a bit clumsy, but I havent got time right now to do a sketch. In your case this will not be necessary, as you will have the glass on the outside of the cedar planking anyway.
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| Western Red Cedar bottom planking |
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| Bottom covered with 400gsm (12oz) double-bias glass and the first two planks of plywood lapstrake attached - the first plank going over the glass, which itself had been laid over the bevelled edge of the cedar bottom planking. |
Hiya Ross,
Here are three pix of the dory project to date. This boat is a copy of the last original belonging to Portuguese fishing barkentine Gazela Primeiro. You can see more pictures on www.Gazela.org and my facebook page. My version of the dory has a meranti plywood bottom and white cedar planking over laminated ash frames. The gunwale and cap are white oak. The dory will essentially be dry sailed i.e. living on Gazelas deck most of the time and occasionally be used for crew training and exhibition at home and ports of call.
After corresponding with you some time ago I took your advice and epoxy joined only the garboard plank to the bottom. The rest of the construction has followed traditional methods. The upper edge of the garboard and the remaining planks are dory lapped and copper riveted. Planks to frames are joined with Si bronze screws.
I think we talked about covering the bottom and up to the upper edge of the garboard with synthetic cloth and epoxy.
Now areas where I could use advice:
What cloth would be appropriate? I dont think the dory will ever see a beach, but it might. So a light cloth should do.
Is there an advantage to graphite additive to the epoxy?
Any tricks to applying the cloth?
Thanks for your help,
Tony Souza
And part of my reply: -
Dear Tony,
Thanks very much indeed for the up-date, and for the nice photos. The boat looks super to my eyes, and Id love to take her out in the rough stuff - preferrebly with some weight in the bottom to represent the ballasting effect of a load of Cod!
My appologies for the delayed reply - we have been recovering from the devastating flash-flood which wiped us out on January 10, and priorities tend to be re-arranged!
For the cloth, the simplest would be 200gsm (6oz) woven glass. This is light and easy to use, and gives a good level of protection, and more importantly, provides a sort of screed to ensure an even thickness of epoxy. Dynel is also a good option (4oz, I think, but you would need to check with the supplier). Dynel is bulkier than glass for the same weight, and it has superior abrasion resistance - I like it on decks - but it doesnt have the tensile stiffness of glass so it will have less structural effect on the garboard-to-bottom joint. For a hefty boat like yours which may get handled roughly, Id give serious thought to using 400gsm (12oz) double-bias glass cloth. It isnt woven, so it takes bends fairly well, and with the fibres aligned 45 degrees/45 degrees, every fibre crosses the longitudinal joints. It is cheaper than woven glass, but is heavier than the normal 6oz stuff.
I normally use the dry application method (for weights up to 12oz). I lay the cloth over the dry, sanded, and vacuumed surface, and them smooth it into position with a dustpan brush or a wide, dry paintbrush. Tape any troublesome edges down with temporary bits of masking tape. Then start by mixing small quantities of epoxy and pour them onto the glass (or Dynel) and spread them with a squeegee - I use rectangles of 1/16" model aircraft balsa as they can be bent along the grain if required, and the corners dont snag on the glass. Dont press too hard, as you will end up aerating the epoxy and making it go creamy with minute air bubbles (just like what happens when whipping cream). Just use a gentle figure-eight sweeping motion to get it out onto the surface. Dont fuss about getting it to wet-out - that will happen automatically. Keep on mixing, pouring and spreading until the entire surface is covered. Small batches are good, as they dont heat up so rapidly in the container.
When the surface is covered, use disposable brushes and/or disposable foam rollers with about a 1/8" nap to distribute the resin evenly. I use dry brushes and rollers - they pick-up from the excessivcely wet areas and put down in the dry areas. When all is even, use the squeegees again (held at about 45 degrees to the surface) to scrape off excess resin so you end up with just the wet cloth, but no visible pooling of liquid resin.
After the epoxy has gone off enough to be certain that the cloth wont float up off the surface - this depends on temperature and rate of cure - but when it gets to a "green"state of cure, lay on several more coats of epoxy to fill the weave so that when you finally sand the surface (after removing any amine blush with water and cloths, sponges or Scotchbrite pads) you are only sanding epoxy and not going through to the glass.
Have a look on my website under the button labelled "First Mate Photos 3" for a brief pictorial demonstration - the thumbnails enlarge if you click on them.
Design 1944 Burger 66 Raised Pilothouse
The firm has designed quite a few boats for Burger Boat over the years. For the motoryacht designs, we generally provided a set of Lines, in some cases based on tank testing and Burger then designed the yachts from there. That was the case here. The boat was introduced in 1967.
Here is the outboard profile and general arrangement plan, generated by Burger.
We have been involved with a couple of transom extensions through the years. Heres an example. The small cockpit allowed for easier line handling and better access to the water.
LOA 66-11"
LWL 61-6"
Beam 16-8"
Draft 4-6"
Hull Material: Aluminum
Building Home Made Sail Boats All Secrets About Wooden Sailboat Plans Outdoors Boating
The prospect of making use of wood sailboat strategies would make lots of people contemplating twice previous to acquiring a boat. There could be the assumption that will fishing vessels making is just in case you will be business professionals as well as experienced vessel devotees. However, thats a misconception, due to the fact home built sail vessel plans usually are for anyone that has got the actual resolve inspite of minimal skills, to be able to construct a straightforward DIY project. Any person at virtually any amount of technique even though you dont develop the practical knowledge of creating are capable of doing this.
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If you might have knowledge within vessel building, then you certainly may like better to create sometimes fishing vessels having a variety of material, i.e. (fiberglass or aluminum). There usually are certainly drawbacks plus negative aspects when choosing several components, but if youre some sort of beginner, in that case decide on the wooden material.
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Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Design 2601 R P I C
R.P.I.C. stands for Riverine Patrol Interdiction Craft. The object was to design a small, fast military craft that could be launched from a flying Lockheed Hercules C130 cargo plane with 6 crew members onboard at an altitude of 10, survive and deliver a top speed of 45 knots for rapid deployment where needed.
Here is the general arrangement of the aircraft.
Heres the cross section showing the launch parameters.
Originally a modified stock production boat with twin outboards (note the sketch above still shows that boat) was to be used but it was proven that the boat couldnt handle the slamming load of being dropped out of a plane. This new boat was then designed. In addition to withstanding slamming loads, G-forces sustainability for the crew members (seat and cockpit sole design) was engineered as well as light armament protection (Kevlar panels).
Power was provided by a single Seatek 6-4V-9D marine diesel generating 600 bhp at 3,150 rpm coupled to a Hamilton waterjet.
Here is the general arrangement plan.
LOA 27-5"
LWL 23-7"
Beam 9-2"
Draft 2-0"
Displacement 10,725 lbs
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Bulwarks à la Buehler
I dont know what Tom specified on the original plans (I need to buy a set from the Wooden Boat store), but this particular Blue Moon has flush decks, right to the edge of the boat. Not even a toe-rail. While this keeps her lines clean, I like to have a little something between me and the deep-blue sea as Im crawling up to the foredeck.
I liked the idea of full length bulwarks, but the Blue Moon has such a sheer that it will be a big job to get them to fit properly without severe edge set. So as a temporary measure, I decided to just add them to the raised-deck section. I think theyll look okay for my voyage, and it will be an easy matter to unbolt the short sections and replace them with full length bulwarks when I have more time.
Thats one of the great things about wooden boats. You can change them. Wow, what a concept!
I decided to use George Buehlers "Bulwark System 1", as discussed on page 151 of his Buehlers Backyard Boatbuilding
. With this simple system, you bolt steel brackets to the deck every 2-4 feet, and then bolt a plank to these brackets for the bulwark.
photo jalmberg
George recommends 3/16" thick, 3" steel angle for the brackets. This is heavy duty stuff, so dont even think about cutting it yourself. I got these cut by Steve at Fleisher Tube here on Long Island, for like $5 each.
Oddly enough, the 5/16" holes in the bracket are more expensive than the steel itself, so I drilled the holes myself, using a friends drill press.
photo jalmberg
Drilling the holes is easy if you have a good drill bit and if you clamp the bracket to the bed of the drill press. You dont want that baby flying around on the end of your drill! Just mark your holes, make a dent at each location with a metal punch, and put a drop of oil in the dent before drilling. Easy-peasy.
Then I had Gary from Master Weld in East Northport weld a 3/4" inside diameter steel pipe coupling to half the brackets. Make sure the coupling is smooth on the outside... the rough ones are cast steel and are not strong enough, according to Gary.
Its hard/expensive to get steel galvanized in this day and age, so Steve recommended having these brackets metalized and powder coated. This is a faily low-cost solution that sounds pretty effective, so Im hoping I have time to have this done before I leave. Otherwise, Ill have to slap a coat of Rustoleum on them till I have time to redo them in the summer.
I am working on Cabin Boys planking at the moment, and hope to have some pics of that tomorrow.
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Why you will need a business strategy!!!
Q: In previous weeks column, everyone gave suggestions about starting up your company, and you kept preaching concerning composing a business plan. I very own a business, I are deprived of a strategy, along with Im performing simply fine. Whats the large deal?
A: How take your online business does on "fine" weve passed away you do not have a organization strategy? This is much like a runner saying that hes "fast" when inquired his managing pace. Quality and also excellent results is unable to be measured with out getting standards and goals. A business technique gives each, permitting a person to be able to review your current effects in order to your current objectives. With away a new strategy, it truly is much too very simple to hold switching the actual bar in your self.
In the actual words connected with Alan Lakein, "Failing in order to prepare is definitely planning for you to fail." Company keepers might neglect arranging for the number of reasons. They could hate making decisions, or maybe some might be worried about how a strategy will reflect their great results. An user may possibly really feel troubled concerning telling (and producing "official") employment descriptions, traces connected with authority, budgets, and also advertising plans. An online marketer may perhaps terror these kinds of manage measures, feeling that the corporation strategy is definitely including getting a boss! If you build a property with out a plan, nevertheless, you can discover yourself living in precisely what appears like a childrens play fort. Every cycle is in line with a quick inspiration, whilst your different house will become "curiosity function wild." A premium architect will start using their remaining product in mind. To form a protected bu siness, you might want to plan.
According towards Small Company Center with Bradley University, 70 to be able to 80 percent of different organizations crash into their first year, as well as of these that will carry on past a year, only half pull through to a few years. Similarly, research from Dun & Bradstreet mirror that only 37 per cent of providers together with under something like 20 workers will survive four years, along with simply nine per cent can make it 10 years. In light associated with these kinds of complicated statistics, that appears to be foolish to look at pointless risks - like not passing for you to strategy.
You may possibly nonetheless be thinking, "I cant come up with a plan, simply because elements change also quickly." Although consistent change is definitely certain with just about any company, a good system may be ones reply to coping using change. As a sailor, I check out a company tactic as equivalent into a centerboard on a little bit sailboat. Thanks to help its centerboard, the fishing boat can carry on going forward, as the particular gusts of wind transfer course; not having its centerboard, this vessel would likely flail all around along with ultimately crash. A great strategy keeps anyone consistently continue - from time to time slowly, occasionally quickly, although without crashing!
While producing your business plan, you might experience frustrated. After all, youll be crafting ones objectives, without having consuming speedy action to arive at them. You must have an understanding of where by you happen to be as well as where you will be going, before proceeding anywhere. Writing a method can be exhausting, too. I guarantee, however, ones listless emotions will certainly disappear, while your small business transforms from "doing merely fine" to "doing really well."
I wish my own reaction to your dilemma is definitely enough and offers a comprehension with the reason I actually trust an enterprise technique will be crucial. Here tend to be a number of questions to take into account while creating your plan:
. Why carry out I would like to start out my own ring company?. Have I determined the correct firm to get me?. Who usually are this customers?. What do most of these clients need how the market seriously isnt currently providing?. How will I get to them?. What will probably it decide on get to them?. How much will the item cost to offer their unmet needs?. How significantly is he prepared to shell out in order to reach these kind of require?. Can I generate profits at the following business?
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Confessions of an Epoxy Hater
On the one hand, I love the results. For example, the laminated boomkin I am about to create. On the other hand, Im acutely aware of the toxic nature of epoxy, and the very real threat of an allergic reaction. I had an allergic reaction to penicillin once, and dont care to repeat the experience.
So Im very careful to wear long pants and long sleeve shirt, with gloves (I like the more expensive nitrile gloves), and mask; and to work in a well ventilated area. And I urge my readers to do the same, if they decide to try this at home.
With that sense of caution, I strapped on my chemical warfare armor, and got to work on the next stage of my boomkin build.
Id given my steam bent hickory 2 days to cool and dry. The Wood Handbook says drying is an important part of the wood retaining its new shape, so I didnt rush it. The photo below shows the wood still clamped to the the form.
BEFORE unclamping the wood, I drew some index lines. These were pencil lines that I hoped would help me reassemble the pieces correctly.
First, I drew a pencil line, straight across the top of the 5 boards, at the far end. Id use this line to make sure all 5 boards were lined up properly, in relationship to each other. When the boards were lined up properly, the lines on all 5 boards would also line up.
Second, I drew another pencil line, on the right face of the right most board (in the photo below), right next to the first form. When all 5 boards were glued together, Id use this line to make sure the whole assembly was lined up correctly on the forms.
This is a very important step, I think, but I hadnt seen it mentioned in any of my boat building books. Luckily, Id learned a similar lesson the hard way when building the station molds for Cabin Boy. Fool me once!
 |
| Dont forget to draw index lines before removing wood from frame! |
 |
| With clamps removed |
- wet out the two sides to be glued with an untracked epoxy/hardener mixture.
- apply a layer of thickened epoxy/hardener mixture
- clamp
I set up an epoxy workstation, as seen in the photo below.
I used two plastic paint roller trays (purchased at HD for half the price at WM). One tray was for the unthickened epoxy, and one for the thickened stuff.
Theres no hard and fast rule for adding thickener, but the idea is to end up with something with the consistency of catsup.
I thought I could roll on both, but the thickened epoxy was a bit too thick for a roller. I used an old paint scraper to spread the thickened epoxy as smoothly as I could.
 |
| Epoxy station |
I mixed up the unthickened batch, using a digital scale to get the proportions right. I used 4 oz of epoxy for each batch, with .8 oz of hardener.
Then I rolled it onto both surfaces, to wet out both surfaces.
Then, I added thickener to the remaining epoxy, and spread it onto one of the boards (the right one, in this photo). If I noticed any holes in knots, for example, I was careful to fill them with thickened epoxy. There were just a few small knots that needed this treatment.
Finally, I put the two glued faces together, lined up my index line, pressed the boards together with my hands, and quickly moved on to the next two faces.
 |
| Both boards wetted out, and one slathered with thickened epoxy |
However, it was no big deal. Even though the boards werent clamped together, it was easy to roll the 5 glued boards together on their sides, and slide them into the curve of the form.
 |
| Initial clamping |
I also added a few additional clamps between the forms, wherever it looked like the joint needed more pressure. Every clamp I own is in action in the photo below. If Id had more, there would be more in the photo!
 |
| Add caption |
One problem: what to do about the squeeze out on the bottom?
I dont have a solution for that one. Im sure it will be a big mess that I will complain about, bitterly, in a future blog post, but I dont know what you can do about it. If anyone has a brilliant idea, Id be glad to hear it!
The whole process took about 1/2 hour, which was well within the bounds of the 206 hardener. Ill give it a good 24 hours to dry, and pick up the story from there. The next step is shaping these glued up boards into something that looks like a spar. I really have no idea how Im going to do that, but I guess I will think of something...
>>> Next Episode: Meditation on 8
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
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Stem Pattern
Im starting to feel like Im actually building a boat.Having lofted the stem full size Ive made a pattern to send to BTS Wales so that they can find me a grown Oak crook. Thanks for the tip Thumbs.
There are lots of ways to transfer lines from a lofting to a mould or template. However since Im lofting on a wall, rather than the loft floor, my choice are more limited. Having put nails into the lofting board to spring the batten I can then take them out, lay on a piece of tracing paper, put them back in, put the batten back, draw the line again and then use the nail holes in the tracing paper to redo the entire thing on a thin piece of ply.It takes as long to do it as explain it.
A few minutes with a jigsaw (please Santa, bring me a bandsaw) and I have a rather ragged template.
Ill do the same thing again to get a template for the rabbet line and, when Ive developed the sections, the bearing line.